Balgier told us that Tsaagannuur was a three hour ride away. The Darkhad Depression has a tremendous water system, many rivers and a large lake. One river flows just south of the town. We wonder how to cross it. We see no bridge and cannot see the bottom of it. Then we spot a cow crossing and it looks easy. M goes first and I follow in his trail. But as I approach the far shore I notice that Max is a meter to the right of where M had gone. Too late. Max sinks to his head and stumbles ashore as I lift my saddle bags up in one hand. I am wet but no harm done.
H, a woman from Israel, is staying at this guest house. I met her back in Khatgal. She has now just returned from a four day horse trek to the northern taiga to see the Tsaatan. She will come with us tonight to witness the song and dance of our second shaman, Nergui. He sits with us now in the guesthouse watching tv with the daughter of Gamba, Anoka, M and me. He is unusually sober.
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