O's family - Day 11 Solo

Departure: 11:15
Arrival: 6 pm
Two x 30 minute tea breaks.
Riding time: 5:45
It works! The message Baigalmaa wrote me I show only twice. Good thing I stopped to ask before riding further on. The first time I ask, a woman points south of the trail, towards distant hills. Behind that one, she says, you will find them. How far is it? About an hour. Ok. It is only 3 pm. Plenty of time yet before dark. I ride towards the horizon.

No gers are in sight. I am a bit anxious but I trust my luck. I focus on the mountain profile as it cuts the sky and steer Max towards it. After an hour I begin to ease around the mountain. To my left are a few gers. Time to ask directions again. I ride up to a woman doing the laundry. I show her my note. She points over the next hill, about 30 minutes away. Which hill? I dismount Max and foto the horizon. Then I zoom on to the foto. She tells me which hill she means.

As I ride up the hillside a motorcycle appears. He stops and waits for me to ride up to him. I circle around so I don't have to look into the sun. I hand him the note. He says laconically, That's my father.

It is amazing to me that people in the countryside have addresses. This one reads something like: behind Mt. So and So. Arbulag. Although nomads, these Mongols return to the same spot year after year. While the ger is movable, they often build permanent structures, such as a barn, corral, or outhouse, which mark their place in the landscape.

I am welcomed at O's ger by a couple of aggressive dogs. I do a dance with them and Max, but before long I am feasting on bread and cheese. I am beat! It is a tremendous relief to arrive! I feel as if I am approaching the end of my journey.