Mongolian saddle |
No mother present. After the father departed, the daughter searched and searched in my phrasebook for something. I spoke to her many times, but never did she speak to me. After a long while she found what she was looking for: luggage. Her brother came with me to help with my saddle.
She fed me shöl - the best I have had, with thicker noodles. Then came goat entrails served up, of which I ate only a bit of liver. Plenty of tea and aaryyl. I am beat. Today has been a long day. After the short break at the unfriendly woman's place, I asked directions a bit further on. A fat woman, jolly to perfection, pointed to the horizon. It is hit or miss with each ger you seek out. Roll the dice and see what you get.
I just washed up at the drying up river. One neighbor came to watch, then rode off to the other ger. The cold water felt good on my face.
I try to pinpoint or even guestimate our position on the map. But I can't do it. The topo of the map does not match what I see: mountains to the east and west. But where they tell me we are has only one or two mountains shown on the map. I must have come a different road than I thought.
I cross a small river flowing east to west at 11:30 and then a large river flowing north-south at about noon. That was an anxious moment! I asked a man transporting his ger in a truck if I had to cross to go on to Ulaan-uul. Yes, crossing the river would put me on the trail to that town. I didn't dare video the crossing. Too treacherous. I made it safely, but regret not filming.
On the other side of the river a truck passes me from the other direction transporting many head of reindeer. Maybe to take to the nearby tourist ger camp. Here the road branches. I ask a man with a long belly scar the way. A woman points back across the river! But another go-round of questioning yields a consensus: follow the river. So I do.
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