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| Aaryyl drying on the ger's roof |
This ger is near a large lake. A kilometer away is the raft ferry that takes passengers across the river. Beyond that is a hill and over that hill is another lake. On the far side of that lake stand three log cabins. In the second one is Balgier, the shaman. Tomor points to the spot on the map. We carry three maps, scale 1: 500,000, taped and folded that we bought back in UB. Good for show and tell. Also good is the Lonely Planet phrasebook, quite popular among travelers here. We communicate by looking up words time and again. It does not always work, but this time it does.
Otgon cooks us rice with mutton. We thought we had missed dinner. The twins are darling. Tomor points out that my bowl is empty and one fills it promptly. And again.
The kids enjoy looking at our maps. The twins and Solongo, 16, two years older than her sisters. All three maps are spread out on the carpet of the ger. But then one twin pulls out their 2007 road map of Mongolia, and that trumps all of ours.
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