Blizzard in High Summer

Incredible! We leave Tsaatan teepee in a blizzard! The Mongols told us to pack our bags, so we did. It is not a white out; I can see my horse from 50 feet. We say good-bye to Otgon, wait for M to show his good faith  in fetching water from the river for teepee, and ride back to the pass. We follow the river for a ways, then slide away from it. I think we are north of the pass but after a couple hours of praying my horse doesn't step in a snow covered bog, we find the awaa.

Adjusting baggage on the pack horse in the blizzard

We walk our horses down the slope from the pass. This is not easy. My horse wants to go faster than I safely can, so I shorten my hold on the lead rope and struggle to stay in front of him. I think of Max, my horse, slipping and tumbling on top of me. At least we have the wind at our backs, and with five layers of clothing on, I get warm. Still, with four pairs of socks on and feet wrapped in plastic bags, my feet are frozen.

Returning is not any easier than it was coming. The trail that two days ago was muddy and slippery is still muddy and slippery. At one point E's horse slips, throwing E out of the saddle. E grabs on to a tree trunk, making a comical scene as he hugs the tree. A minute later M takes the same route. And the same thing happens: his horse slips and M is forced out of his saddle and hugs the same tree.

As we descend the mountain, the snow turns to rain and the wind diminishes. Still, the trail is dangerous. But my horse seems to know how to negotiate the slope and the mud. Trust your horse, a voice says. When Max, my horse, refuses to take the path I direct him to, I pause to let him consider the options.  Thus far, a perfect success rate.

But on a straight and level section of the trail, Max loses his footing in the superficial mud and falls. This is more embarrassing than hurtful. In short time I am up and mount Max.

We arrive at the gold miners' mess camp at 3:30 and stay a couple hours as the cooks prepare their sole meal of noodles and mutton. We sit in a ger. Customers stream in and dry themselves by the stove, turning around to dry their backsides. Deels and jackets hang from the rafters. Socks and gloves are placed near the stove. Boots stand footless.